fifthnole
New Member
Everything is difficult before it is easy.
Posts: 1
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Post by fifthnole on Nov 16, 2003 22:17:11 GMT -5
I've found different information. One place says it is alright to shift the rear hub under load. Another says not to shift under load. What are your thoughts? Thanks, Joe in Central Va.
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Post by Admin on Nov 17, 2003 15:22:14 GMT -5
BikeE themselves said it was ok to shift under load. I have done this several times without any problems. The thing I love the most is being able to shift to a lower gear while stopped. Can't do that on other bikes.
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Post by Jameson on Nov 18, 2003 10:20:58 GMT -5
Joe: This may depend on what year your bike is. I believe that SRAM states their newer "Dual Drive" hub, the 24-speed 3x8 model used on later 2002 BikeE models, may be shifted under load. The rear hub of the Dual Drive is a redesign of their earlier 3-speed hub. I'm not certain SRAM recommends the older Sachs 3x7 hub be routinely shifted under load, no matter what BikleE may have said. I'd suggest sending an e-mail to SRAM so you can get the straight scoop from the folks who make the hub. You may not always get an immediate reply, but I've found the SRAM folks to be very helpful. www.sram.com/
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Post by Robin Parkes on Nov 18, 2003 17:21:02 GMT -5
I have a 2002CT with Dual Drive 3x8 and it is possible to shift under load but having had a number of bikes with Sturmey Archer hub gears I am wary of doing it too often. It is possible but don't do it just because it is. Look after the gears by avoiding shifting under load.
Regards,
Robin.
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kvmc
New Member
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Post by kvmc on Feb 27, 2004 11:50:44 GMT -5
My shifting never has worked right. So as I read these posts --- should I be getting a new one?
I was working on trying to find a new (ok not new but different) bike E with the non-hub kind of shifting.
Any opinions?
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Post by Robin Parkes on Feb 27, 2004 16:08:32 GMT -5
Any difficulties shifting the hub gears can usually be traced to the pin that changes the gears. It does depend on which type of hub you have. The 3x7 hub has a threaded rod with a chain on it which is in turn connected to the cable. It shifts to the higher gear by the cable slackening. I'm not sure about SRAM but it is similar to Sturmey Archer you normally set it in 2nd and adjust the rod so it is just level with the end of the axle when looking at it through the window that is part of the nut.
The 3x8 has a click box that hooks on to the wheel nut and the shifting pin and shifts in the opposite pattern. I have the 3x8 and I had bother with the hub gears but found that the pin was very slack and I never had any more problems after I had tightened it and adjusted the cable tension according to the instruction book. I've never had to readjust the gears in the 18 months I have had my CT.
Philip, can you help?
Regards,
Robin.
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kvmc
New Member
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Post by kvmc on Feb 29, 2004 20:24:41 GMT -5
Robin --- You give me hope. I am 3x7 I think. I have had a bunch of different mechanics look at it. Each has made an adjustment and most have said that hub shifts are hard to get just right.
Thanks for your help. I will find the book and give it a look.
Kvmc
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kvmc
New Member
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Post by kvmc on Feb 29, 2004 20:25:00 GMT -5
Robin --- You give me hope. I am 3x7 I think. I have had a bunch of different mechanics look at it. Each has made an adjustment and most have said that hub shifts are hard to get just right.
Thanks for your help. I will find the book and give it a look.
Kvmc
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Post by Robin Parkes on Mar 3, 2004 8:14:23 GMT -5
Kvmc
Tell me how you get on with it. As I said my experience is with Sturmey Archer the daddy of all hub gears and there may be some differences between that and the SRAM hub gear.
Regards,
Robin.
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Post by Admin on Mar 5, 2004 9:50:09 GMT -5
It's odd that you can't get the adjustment dialed in. These hubs are very reliable and usually require no adjustment. Since I put a new tire on the back 3 years ago I haven't had to adjust the rear hub. The method I used was to put the shifter in third gear (cable will be slack), the pin should be all the way in. Slide the cable atachment over the threads on the indicator chain, which is attached to the pin, until the slack is taken up. You should now be able to shift between the 3 gears. Minor adjustments can be made on the barrel adjuster on the shifter. Good luck
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Post by Limax on Mar 16, 2004 15:01:22 GMT -5
I had trouble adjusting it as well, and ended up bending the shift pin on my BikeE. I got a replacement, but I'm still trying to install the hub back on the cable, which was also skewed. My LBS was going to charge me $40 to do it, so I'm trying to get through it.
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Post by UN flagbearer on May 25, 2004 2:11:04 GMT -5
the shifting problem may be due to the length of the housing.All grip shifts require the cable to move freely in the housing.Check the end of the housing for jaggedness,use a slick cable and luricate with a slippery lube such as tri-flow.3 speeds in general have a reluctance to return from alow gear to a higher gear.The usual technique (with a Sturmey Archer hub) of back pedalling slightly,to take pressure off the clutch and permit it to slide back more easily doesn't seem to apply to the 3x7.The adjustment is tricky,because you want it all the way out in 1st,but return promptly to the 2nd gear position when shifted.Try setting it a bit looser and make sure that there's nothing restricting the cables movement in the housing.cambio
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Post by kvmc2 on Jun 27, 2004 9:30:44 GMT -5
ta da---
I finally used all your suggestions and have the hub working pretty well. Now that I know I can fine tune easily while on the road, it helps alot.
Thanks to everyone! K
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Post by Robin Parkes on Jun 27, 2004 11:43:08 GMT -5
Great ;D Keep us posted a to how you get on and a ride report would be nice. We haven't had one for a long while I'll just be glad to get out. Holidays in two weeks. I can't wait. Regards, Robin.
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Post by kvmc2 on Aug 1, 2004 20:20:50 GMT -5
I rode 2 part days of Ragbrai (ride across Iowa). It was only about 50 miles total but that was all I was ready to handle.
I saw about 10 bike E's on the road. One most notable had the body of a race car attached over top.
I also saw a bike that looked like it rode just like a bike E and I believe it said Canondale on it --- of course it may have been a home made with a canondale body --- but it looked like I could ride that ---
I also have an Easy Rider and I can't ride that like I can ride the Bike E ---
I've had the Bike E up to 45 mph's and wouldn't dare do that on the Easy Rider.
Now I realize how much I have missed riding the Bike E!!!
Can't wait til my stiff neck is better so I can ride again (must have been a bit nervous riding and squeezed my shoulders up).
Cheers.
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