Bike E weight capacity

[xring1]

I am going to look at a Bike E on Friday and need information.
What is the weight capacity of a Bike E ? I weigh about 235 .
The person that has the bike knows nothing about it and it was her later husbands. I have not been able to find much info about them as far as models etc. ?
Are the model numbers/letters on the frames?
Any info as to what to look for etc would be appreciated
I am recovering from an accident and need to lose weight I gained during recuperation and thought a recumbent might be a good way to go.
Thanks

[pjespers]

I am at 245 and I ride my CT regularly. As far as models go, there are only a few and they are easily recognizable by their configuration. Depending on the year it was built, some components may look at little different, but the basic setup is the same. Any would be great for what you are planning.

I'll wager that it's a CT. The CT was the most popular BikeE. If the one you're looking at has no suspension, then it's a CT. Tires, drivetrain, brakes are all standard parts and easily replaceable should they be rusted or broken. (I just did mine with local bike shop parts). Make sure the seat and seat back are in good shape. Replacement seat covers and backs are available. www.goestores.com/storename/bicycleman1/ViewDept-265508.aspx

Check the little round black 'sliders' that hold the seat to the frame. See if they have metal rings on them. The rings resemble simple key rings. See attached image. If no rings, then you either need to ride easy, buy new sliders with rings(if you can find them), or buy key rings and fit them yourself. Without the rings, the sliders can break under hard riding.

Also check the seat supports. The metal rods that run from the back of the seat down to the base of the seat. These have been known to break under hard riding conditions. If broken, they can be welded back. If not broken, they can be reinforced with JB Weld or similar product.

tachyonlabs.com/mybike.html has lots of info on BikeE.

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[pjespers]

Here's a copy of the Owners Manual

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[xring1]

Thanks for the info and especially the manual.
I just got an email from the person selling the bike and it was her late husbands and she said the bike was purchased new and she thought it was bought about 5 years ago. I guess this would mean it was one that some dealer had long after BikeE went out of business but should have the seat issues fixed.
At $225 I should not get hurt too bad on the deal.
I currently have a Worksman PAV-3 that I am having fun with but the BikeE should be more suitable for more speed etc.

[tutorblk]

Hi, I had looked up The BikeE Pages for a similar question last year: here's what i found from www.bikee.org/frequently%20asked%20questions.htm [accessed May 2009 (not available today)]: where it says: quote<<Maximum rider size? The BikeE CT is designed to work for riders up to 350lbs under normal riding conditions. The rear suspended models are designed for riders up to 300 lbs, due to the capabilities of the rear shock. The standard length frames are designed to fit riders from 4'8" to about 6'2" and the XL is designed to fit rider from 4'8" to about 6'8". The AT is also available in ShortE and XXL sizes for shorter and taller riders than the standard and XL easily accommodate.>>end quote.

Hope this helps.
Enjoy the bent grin! Brian

[pjespers]

You cant lose for $225. Run and buy it NOW!

[xring1]

I guess i should have a "double wide" Ebent grin. I got the bike for $175
The bike is a blue CT and in good condition.
It does not have the metal rings in the seat sliders so I guess it may be a bit older than 2001-2002 like i was told. When did they start making them with the metal rings on the seat sliders?
I will post a picture later after I go out and fall over a couple of times and try to maintain my Ebent grin ;D

[xring1]

Here is a picture of my new CT. Took it out for a quick 5 mile spin this evening and sure enough I have got a bent grin. ;D
Only one problem.... I can't seem to get the 7 speed side of the shifter to work. Nothing seems out of place and i can feel pressure on the cable on the back when I try to move the shifter...any help appreciated

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[pjespers]

Odds are the cable is shot. You can try disconnecting the derailleur end of the cable and then see if it moves when you click the shifter. Look for frays in the cable. You may not see them if they are inside the housing. That was the case with mine. I took my old cable to a local bike shop and they used it to size me a new one. I had to take the shifter also because I didnt know how to get the cable off of the shifter. They did it for me. And installed the new cable. If the cable moves freely once disconnected from the derailleur, then see if the derailleur itself moves or is rusted. Or you can just take the whole thing to a local shop and have them check it out for you. Good luck!

[tutorblk]

+1 to pjespers' comment - if you can't spot the challenge easily then invest in a visit to LBS. The BikeE has mostly standard mountain bike parts, the chain can be easily built by joining 2 standard chains (or 2-and-a-bit), tandem cables should be plenty long enough and can be ordered if they are not in stock.
An advantage of visiting the bike shop would be that the mechanic should be able to set the gears and brakes up sweetly for you - then you'd be certain of many months of trouble-free spinning 'n' grinning! :-)

[tutorblk]

Oh - meant to say in the last reply, the rings on the sliders - I have read that folks have been able to find key ring splitrings that can be pushed over the sliders, they thought that's all those metal rings are (as pjespers suggests). I have no experience here, my later CT has a different seat and doesn't have the same sliders, I'm passing on what I read on the 'web.
I would recommend you have a go at sourcing some key rings that fit, I think they were fitted to help prevent the sliders splitting. The 27" tall seat without the rings was recalled - someone's sliders broke and they fell off so there was a safety recall to replace the original sliders. Mind you, if I couldn't find the rings it wouldn't matter to me - just recognise you can push very hard backwards into the seat which might split the sliders. Adopt a 'spinning' style - drop down a gear and avoid pressure - on knees as well as seat! It'll save the seat frame welds too.